![]() When servicing the wheelends with the wheels off, clean any rust from the mating wheel and hub surfaces.Ĭheck the hub for distress and ensure there’s no damage at the stud holes or wear on the wheel mounting face. The cure for this should be obvious.Ĭracks that run around the disc nave indicate a bad fit-up, or a damaged hub that is placing alternating stresses into the wheel center. But include regular removal of the wheels to clean the mating faces and then torquing down the lug nuts.Ĭracks that run from stud hole to hand-hole, hand-hole to rim or hand-hole to hand-hole are caused by overloading. A regular maintenance program that includes checking lugnuts with a torque-wrench should go a long way to eliminating this cracking. Step 2 is to try and think of reasons why the lug nut might have loosened.Ĭracks that run from stud hole to stud hole arise when a wheel is loose or incorrectly torqued. The answer is to get a torque wrench on to it immediately. Knowing how to read the cracks can tell you about the problem.įirst streaks: These rusty marks coming radially away from a lugnut indicate a loose fastener. Know what you are dealing with by looking at the pilot hole and the stud holes in the wheels if you are in any doubt.ĭuring the walkaround or in a more detailed inspection, any streaks or cracks you may find in truck wheels signify a problem. Studs can break, wheels move and the whole assembly may separate with potentially disastrous results. In neither case will the hardware clamp the other type of wheel adequately to the hub face if the wrong hardware is used. The older-style wheel uses the spherical seat and matching radius on the nut to locate the wheel, as well as to clamp it to the hub.ĭo not mix the two systems even in an emergency. ![]() This will more closely center the wheel for optimum balance and minimum runout. When mounting hub-piloted wheels, try to “hang” the wheel from one of the machined lands located at the 12 o’clock position. These machined lands center the wheel, and flat-faced lug nuts with integral washers clamp the wheel to the hub face. The hub-piloted wheel is located on lands carefully machined out of lugs cast into the hub. The wheels may be the same size and have the same number of stud holes, but they are definitely not interchangeable, either on the hubs or in the use of hardware. ![]() Hub-piloted wheels are increasingly common now, but there are still many older trucks and especially trailers running around on the stud-piloted wheels with the ball-seat nuts. If you are looking for Grade 8 ball and seat nuts, there’s a Euclid E-5977-L/R for left or right thread. If the wheels are stud-located with a ball nut in a seat on the wheel, try to ensure all studs and inner and outer cap nuts are Grade 8. Stud-located wheels are identified by their inner and outer cap nuts on dual pairs, with left- and right-hand threads on either side of the truck or trailer. Wheels are two basic different types these days, the older Budd-type that are stud-located and hub-piloted wheels. The loading on the remaining studs may well have exceeded their design limit, and a catastrophic failure with the loss of a wheel could result. The correct procedure is to replace the studs on either side of the broken one at the same time. If a stud is broken, replace it as soon as possible and preferably before leaving the terminal or truckstop if you can. You’re looking for cracks in the structure of the wheel, rust streaks away from the lugnuts or broken and missing studs. Every time you do a circle check, inspect every wheel for damage.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |